Showing posts with label install. Show all posts
Showing posts with label install. Show all posts

09/07/2010

How to change water pump, camshaft / balance / timing belts on a Porsche 944 Turbo

THE WHY?

Having had my belts done when I first got my car a year and half ago I shouldn't really need to touch them for another 25,000 miles and having looked extensively around the net everyone has their own methods. The trouble is nobody seems to have posted a complete tutorial until I came across these excellent videos by VSVENSON on youtube. He takes you clearly through the steps and it doesn't appear to be as daunting as I had originally imagined.

THE TASK

There are a couple of special tools you may need to do this job and they can be quite rare and expensive. Luckily I found this site where a fella makes his own versions for a lot less.

THE HOW TO

Well here are the videos. Please make an effort to visit VSVENSON's YouTube channel and leave him some words of encouragement and praise for all his hard work.

Part 1 - Water pump



Part 2 - Water Pump



Part 3 - Water Pump and Camshaft / Balance / Timing Belt Change



If you need a written walkthrough try these at Clarks Garage

Camshaft (Timing) Belt General Information
Camshaft (Timing) Belt Installation
Camshaft (Timing) Belt Removal
Camshaft (Timing) Belt and Balance Shaft Belt Tensioning
Camshaft Chain Tensioner Replacement (16V)

And now there is now also an excellent thread on the whole procedure at the Pelican Parts forum (more specific to the non-turbo 944) to which most of the credit should go to forum member John_AZ.

04/03/2010

Porsche 944 Engine Mounts

If your steering wheel or bodywork noticeably vibrates when your 944 is idling (sometimes the rev counter will see-saw at idle too) then it is more than likely that your engine mounts need replacing. There are two mounts and the mount on the drivers side is particularly vulnerable and is usually the first to go.

When I first had both my engine mounts replaced I'd not had the car long (2-3 months) and being the middle of winter I didn't fancy doing it myself, so I had the local general motor mechanic do it. Not being a Porsche specialist and because of the age of the car he wasn't sure how much the mounts would cost, so I said I'd source them from somewhere on the internet.

Not having had any quality problems with third party parts before I sourced some brand new mounts from a place in the states through Ebay. They were cheaper than the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) equivalent so I ordered them and they arrived in a few days. I gave them to the mechanic who then fitted them. He showed me the old mounts and especially the drivers side one was noticeably crushed down more than the other and the rubber had split.

So, nearly a year and a half on I'm writing this post to clear up some things I've found out since.

HERE'S WHAT I KNOW NOW

1. Symptoms of worn engine mounts (Click images for larger versions)



2. Engine mount modifications (OLD Version on Left, NEW Version on Right)



3. How to remove and install engine mounts (Click image for larger version)


As further reference you can use these guides to remove the engine mounts



4. The Engine Mount Heat Protection Plate

If you refer to point 5 in the removal instructions above you will notice it mentions removing the shield for the right engine mount. This is in fact known at the 'heat protection plate' (See part No.19 in the diagram below)

.
I would recommend that every 944 owner checks that they have one as upon checking my own car after the 2nd set of engine mounts were recently installed I found that mine was missing. This may explain why the previous 3rd Party engine mount on this side deteriorated (about 15 months) so quickly due to it being cooked by the heat from the engine manifold.

Here's what to look for on the right side of the engine by the exhaust manifold. The orange arrow points to upper one of two mounting posts for the heat protection plate.


Here's the same shot but a wider view showing a missing heat protection plate


And now here's the same shot again but showing the heat protection plate correctly attached


Her are a couple of photos of the heat protection plate itself



The heat protection plate costs about £23 direct from Porsche and has the following part numbers depending on your version of the 944 (right/left hand drive).


944-341-107-01 LL
951-341-108-02 LL
945-341-107-01 RL > My right hand drive 1984 944 (In the photos above)
952-341-108-02 RL


5. Even though OEM Porsche engine mounts and some third party mounts look the same they are NOT.

Third party mount (solid rubber)


OEM Porsche mount (hydraulic)


6. Genuine OEM Porsche engine mounts for a 944 or 944 Turbo WILL ALWAYS BE 'hydraulic'. This means that the black rubber middle is filled with fluid. When these mounts wear out the rubber will often split and the fluid escapes. When you buy 944 mounts from Porsche they will be the uprated 944 Turbo ones (Product code 951 375 042 04) and are roughly £130 each.

7. Solid rubber mounts I have been informed by Porsche are actually only meant for the 924 even though they have exactly the same fitting as the 944. I did not know this when I purchased mine from Ebay and having looked on various Porsche parts sites since and inquired about the hydraulic version it seems that actually a lot of people are only selling the solid rubber ones. My 1st pair of Third Party solid rubber mounts from Ebay cost about £55 each, my 2nd pair of Genuine Porsche Hydraulic mounts cost £127 each.

I initially replaced the engine mounts in December 2008 with the Third Party Solid Rubber variant and then when I noticed engine vibration 18 months later I had them replaced with Genuine Porsche Hydraulic mounts.

Below are the Third Party solid rubber mounts once they were removed from the car.


Notice the mount on the right (UK Drivers Side) is considerably crushed down more than the one on the left. I measured the heights of the detensioned mounts and found that the one on the right was at 63mm which is 2mm below the recommended level. The one on the left measured at 68mm which is OK and is between the 65-70mm tolerance recommended by Porche (See point 1 at the beginning of the post)


(63mm mount)

.

(68mm mount)



Here's a couple of photos of one of the brand new Genuine Porsche engine mounts (Left) alongside one of the Third Party ones (Right)





8. Third party mounts DON'T always look the same, here's some others.





CONCLUSION

In my opinion and based on my experiences I would only consider using the 3rd Party solid rubber mounts in two instances. In the first instance I would use them if you intend selling the car within 6-12 months as a means of solving engine vibration that could affect the sale price of the vehicle. And in the second instance I think you could probably use the solid rubber variety on the left side only (as this takes less weight and heat from the engine) if you are trying to save a few quid, but would always use the more expensive hydraulic ones on the right. Therefore if you intend keeping the car for the long term ie. 2 years+ then it would be wiser to go for the more durable genuine Hydraulic mounts from Porsche because the awkwardness and cost of doing the job is something you would want to avoid repeating too often.

10/09/2009

How to install new bonnet / hood sound absorber on a Porsche 944

THE WHY?

The benefits of installing new sound absorber to the underside of your hood / bonnet are reduced noise. It also keeps the heat inside the engine compartment preventing damage to external paintwork and keeps the engine at the optimal operating temperature aswell as insulating it from the sun and snow.

THE TASK

Before you can start you will need to remove all the old sound absorbing material, see my other post for a how to. This is very important as poor preparation could end up costing you a lot of money.

You will then need the following items:

a. Methylated spirits
b.Wax paper or baking parchment
c. 3M Scotch Weld 80 Spray Adhesive (£15)
d. Scalpel
e. 2 x sound absorbing pads from Porsche or here (£30-40 per side)
f. Large sheet to cover engine bay
g. Masking tape
h. Old newspapers

 
 


THE HOW TO

(Amateur mechanic Job Time approx: 1-2 hours)

As stated above you should have completely cleaned the old sound absorbing material from the underside of the bonnet /hood. If not see here for a how to.

Now begin by covering the engine bay with a large sheet, this will prevent any glue getting on the engine. Next use newspaper and low-tac masking tape to mask off one of the sound absorbing areas as shown below.


Give the exposed area a quick wipe over with methylated spirits to remove any grease, allow a moment for the meths to evaporate. Now depending on what sound abosrbing material you've bought the process here may differ. If you've bought genuine Porche sound absorber I believe it has it's own adhesive backing. If like me you bought 3rd party sound absorber you will need to use a special heat tolerant spray adhesive called 3M Scotch Weld 80. Spray the exposed area giving it a generous coating, then tear off two large sheets of wax paper / baking parchment and stick these over the glued area (as shown below) making sure you leave about 2-3 inchs of exposed glue along the top edge.


Now pick up the corresponding sound absorbing pad and coat the back of the pad in the same 3M adhesive. Once you've done this take the top edge of the pad and carefully line it up in the correct position and stick it to the underside of the bonnet. This glue is not repositionable so precision is the key here. Once you are sure you've got it lined up correctly remove the upper most sheet of wax paper and carefully smooth down the pad making sure you massage any air pockets out to the edges. Then remove the lower sheet of wax paper and smooth the final piece down. You may find that the bottom edge overlaps the area, but before you trim it make sure you remove all the surrounding masking tape and newspaper. Now simply trim off any excess with a scapel and press down all the edges. If you've got any bubbles use a pin to make a smal hole in the centre of the bubble and massage out the trapped air.

 

Now mask up the other side and repeat the process.


Now the finshed article with transfers applied

 

Here is a link to the 3rd party manufacturers instructions in case you are still unsure or need further detail.