THE WHY?
One of the good things about the 944 is that it doesn't take long for the engine to warm up, which is great in the winter when you need to de-mist the inside of the windscreen and heat the passenger compartment. However it's not so good in the summer if like mine your heater is always giving out hot air even when the heater slider is set as far over to the left handside (the cold setting) as possible. This is caused by usually one of two possible problems. Either the hot/cold slider has a broken cable or the heater control valve (HCV) is faulty. It is usually the heater control valve (HCV).
THE TASK
It is important to note here that the HCV and heater mechanism are completely different on the square dash 944 model to the oval dash 944 model. Oval dash owners should look here and here as this guide is only for square dash owners.
This job is relatively simple (if a little fiddly) and should only take an hour or two.
You will need the following:
Long & small flat bladed screwdrivers
Long-nose pliers
Heater Control Valve (approx £20 from Porsche main dealer)
THE HOW TO
(Amateur mechanic Job Time approx: 1-2 hours)
Firstly it's important to know what the HCV actually does. The HCV is basically a tap that allows hot water from the engine to enter the heater matrix. When you set your heater to hot the tap opens and lets hot water into the matrix and when you set it to cold the tap closes stops the hot water entering the heater matrix.
It's also important to understand how the heater controls work on a square dash 944 as I've seen alot of confusion over this on some forums. There are 4 controls for the heater. This is what they do:
Upper left slider controls the direction of heat (footwell & centre)
Upper right slider controls the direction of heat (centre & windscreen)
Lower slider controls the hot or cold setting
Dial to the left of the sliders controls the fan speed (Off & speeds 1,2,3)
To begin with it's important to make sure the cable that goes from the hot/cold slider to the HCV is not the fault. Start with the lower hot/cold slider all the way over to the cold setting as shown below.
Now open the bonnet and locate the heater control valve which sits tucked down at the back of the engine smack bang in the centre. Below is a picture of the heater control valve.
Because the heater slider is set to cold the heater control valve should have its white arm all the way over to the left hand side (as shown below). You can even see the cable extended.
Now go back inside the car and move the hot/cold slider all the way towards the hot setting. Go back and look at the HCV and you will now see the white arm has moved all the way over to the right (as shown below).
If the white arm of the HCV is not moving then your problem is with the cable. Either the cable has become disconnected at the HCV end or at the hot/cold slider end. Or the cable has broken in the middle somewhere. If the arm is moving you now know that it is very likely that the HCV is the fault.
To remove the HCV you will first need to remove a small metal clip that locks the black outer of cable to the HCV. Do this with your fingers or a pair of long nose pliers. DO NOT LOSE THE CLIP otherwise the cable will not be able to work the HCV. Now unhook the inner cable from the small hole at the end of the white arm on the HCV. Next you will need to undo the 2 hose clips that help secure the 2 hoses to either side of the HCV. Once this is done twist and wriggle the HCV loose from the hoses. Do not be alarmed if water comes out of either hose whilst doing this, just make sure you don't allow the lower of the two hoses to hang down once you have removed the HCV as water will go all over your clutch, just wedge it so that it's upright.
Below is an image of my new HCV (left) against the old HCV (right). Note the washer in the middle that appears to have come loose inside in the old HCV.
You are now ready to install your new HCV. Installation is the reverse of removal. By far the hardest and most important part is re-attaching the metal clip around the black outer of the cable, it took me several attempts and you might be advised to familiarise yourself with how the clip works with the HCV before you attach the hoses to the new one.
One last important thing is that you may or may not have to top up your coolant level as some will be lost when you removed the HCV.
Great tutorial! My 1984 944 has the other heater problem- a bad cable or missing clips. The task is daunting, as there is practically no info available on how to get to the cable, dissable the center console etc. Have you done the cable on your car? Is there a resourse out there? Thanks
ReplyDeleteHave you tried moving the white arm on the HCV by hand? If you can do this and it moves the heater lever inside the car then you know you only need the small spring clip that attaches the cable to to the HCV. Thus far I've not removed the centre console so don't currently know the back end of the slider controls where the cable meets it. And unfortunately I've also not come across a tutorial online about it either.
ReplyDeleteI have a 924s. Setup is basically the same. The connectors inside the car use pretty much the same setup with the bent wire going through a connector. The previous owner lost the clips that hold the cable in place so I fashioned one from some old parts.
ReplyDeleteLikewise, I need the clip that goes on the end of the control valve - haven't found a source, yet. Might just tape it for now.
Hi Dave, I was following your instructions and the first thing I did was to loose the clip. Question, since I live in Miami, and never use the heater, can I cut an put caps on both the upper hvc intake and the one coming from the engine without causing engine overheating? Thanks
ReplyDeleteAs a temporary workaround I wouldn't think this would be a problem as the HCV is only a mechanical on/off valve that allows water from the cooling system to be pumped through the heater matrix. In the long term I would obtain a new clip and put the HCV back in place as you will have no way of refreshing the water in the heater matrix and connecting pipes.
DeleteThank you Dave
ReplyDeleteHi Dave, what is the right temperature gauge reading when the car is idling, say, at a drive thru...mine has been getting past the 3/4 mark, both fans on, and when I start driving goes back to the half mark..your thoughts? Thank you, Pablo
ReplyDeleteProbably means your water pump is getting old (as mine used to do that before it eventually seized). Usually the gauge will get to just over half way before the fan (I only have a single fan on mine) kicks in. This brings the temp down to just over the quarter mark.
DeleteWhen the car is moving the temp usually sits around the quarter mark, never goes near half way.
DeleteWas hoping to hear it was a bad thermostat...lol..thank you Dave
ReplyDeleteIt won't hurt to try a new thermostat (and be cheaper) before looking at the water pump. Just process of elimination.
DeleteReplaced the radiator cap, bled the system, and that did it. Thank you Dave.
ReplyDeleteGood work
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